Keeping Your Own Hens

Most people who wish to start a backyard flock purchase 14–18 week old pullets, but it is possible to purchase end of lay hens from a commercial egg producer (hens who have have completed their commercial egg-laying lifespan).  Chickens can be kept in both urban and rural areas, but you need to check with your local council on their regulations/bylaws for keeping domestic livestock before you start.

At approximately 20 weeks, a pullet theoretically becomes a layer hen (subject to the correct body weight).  The layer hen produces eggs almost every day, after which production tends to taper off at about 30 weeks.  Free range layers will produce eggs for about 9 months of the year, but during winter's shorter days, egg production can drop off to about 30%. On average each bird will produce around 240 eggs per year.  However climate, thunderstorms, aeroplanes and other loud noises can also affect egg production.

The middle of the egg is made first, while the outer shell is made last.  The yolk is formed in the hen’s ovary, and when it becomes large enough, it moves into the oviduct.  As the yolk travels along the oviduct the egg white (or albumen) surrounds the yolk, after which the hard shell is formed. After 24 hours in the oviduct, the egg is ready to be laid. Eggs are laid blunt end first through an opening called the cloaca.

It is necessary to either permanently or temporarily fence the area in which you intend to keep your chickens if they have access to outdoor areas. Chickens need to be contained in a specific area for two reasons:

1. Many prized gardens have been destroyed by stray hens looking for food
2. Hens need protection from predators such as dogs and cats

Poultry housing can come in many different designs, but its main function is to provide protection from the rain and direct sunlight.  It is important that the poultry housing is draught-free while being well ventilated.  Poultry housing should also be regularly cleaned to prevent the build-up of ammonia and spread of disease.

Hens have a natural tendency to perch at night.  Without perches, the birds will crowd into a corner of the hen house and soon a hard, caked patch of manure will form.  If the hen’s claws and feathers get dirty and caked with droppings, the dirt will be transferred to the nest and hence to any eggs.  If you provide perches for roosting you will eliminate crowding, your hens will be less ‘flighty’ and your eggs will be cleaner.

The average hen needs approximately 15cm of perch space at a comfortable jumping height
of about 60cm.  Most perches are constructed out of timber; however, unfortunately a parasite called Red Mite often lives in the joints between timbers. This mite emerges at night and sucks blood from hens, which can lead to loss of production and debilitation of the hen.

The size of the nests will depend upon flock size.  It is desirable to provide one nest per hen of approximately 30cm x 30cm.  Nests can consist of straw, sawdust or some other soft, clean material and should be at least 10cm deep.  It is important to keep all the nests on the same level, as stacking nests vertically will cause the birds to compete for the upper nests. 

Feed is an essential component to keeping a healthy flock of chickens.  The nutritional quality of your hens feed will affect their egg production, size, shell quality and the hen's overall health.  The use of commercial chicken food is recommended as the base of your hen's diet, to ensure they receive the correct amount of protein, vitamins and minerals.  For example, commercial layer hen feed has added calcium to help with egg shell formation.  If your hens are kept on an area that has good grass coverage, approximately 120–150g of commercial feed is required per bird per day.

Chickens will also eat green matter and household scraps.  Although the nutritional value of green matter and household scraps is limited, it can be used to supplement, and hence slightly reduce, the use of commercial feed. 

Clean drinking water is essential for healthy chickens.  Chickens will not drink dirty water and a hen that is without water, even for a short time, will show a sharp decline in egg production.  In hot weather, dehydration can be fatal. A sign of a dehydrated hen is a wilting comb that may turn a blue/black colour.

If at any time, for whatever reason, you feel the health of your hens is threatened, we recommend you consult a veterinarian for specialist advice.